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Frame shape for gravel bikes follow the compact road bike blueprint. The slanting top tube and small rear triangle save on weight and add some compliance to the frame for a more comfortable ride.

Cyclocross bikes have a distinct straight top tube. Standover height isn’t a thing for these bikes – instead, they are designed with a large open triangle frame for easy shoulder carrying over cyclocross race obstacles and run-ups.

The gravel bike’s geometry is long and low for stability and comfort, with a low bottom bracket and long wheelbase.

Cyclocross bikes need to be snappy. You need to turn on a dime and power out of dead-stops, not to mention you might need to bunny hop a barricade. A higher bottom bracket and shorter wheelbase help make this happen.

Tire clearance up to 45c, and you’ll likely run wide tires with as much tread as you’ll need for the conditions.

Also with tire clearance up to 45c, however, with a geometry optimized around a 33c tire. UCI rules state you can’t run tires wider than 33c for elite racing, plus you want that extra room around the tire to allow mud to clear.

A wider gear range on the gravel bike allows you to tackle long, hilly routes without having to get out of the saddle.

With cyclocross’s short courses and short, punchy climbs, a 1x drivetrain with a bigger gear is more useful.

For longer rides and bikepacking, gravel bikes are equipped with tons of mounts for bags, fenders, and extra water bottles.

Though cyclocross bikes have some mounting options, it’s not a top priority since this bike is designed for racing.

Flared drop bars and a dropper seatpost add more stability and control on rough roads and trails.

Regular drop bars may be a bit wider than they would be on the road, and the ability to add a dropper seatpost, if needed, for the race course.

When it comes to geometry, a gravel bike is going to have a taller headtube, steeper headtube angle, and a lower bottom bracket. Making this bike stable mostly in a seated position and optimized for minimal tech.

Mountain bikes get their stability from a slacker headtube angle, making them capable of mowing over rocks, roots, and other trail features. A higher bottom bracket makes it easier to clear those same trail obstacles with your rear wheel as well.

Gravel bikes don’t have a suspension fork or shock. They are “rigid”, making them super-efficient for long rides on gravel and dirt roads.

Mountain bikes will have a suspension fork and sometimes a rear shock to absorb impacts on the trail. The more travel in your suspension, the more comfortable you’ll be on gnarly singletrack. However, all that suspension makes mtbs a little slower rolling and zaps some of your pedaling efficiency.

The disc brakes used on gravel bikes tend to have a fairly small rotor, making them lighter weight.

MTBs have larger rotors to disperse heat when braking heavily over extended periods of time.

Flared drop bars on gravel bikes give the rider options for hand placement on long sections of gravel road, where body position rarely changes.

Mountain bikes have flat handlebars. You don’t need to change hand your position, because you are constantly standing up and maneuvering the bike underneath you.

Maximum 45c tires with small knobs for traction and control on gravel and dirt.

2.2-2.6-inch tires are typical on most mountain bikes with larger knobs for riding on mud, loose dirt, rocks and roots.